Cuisine: Italian / Tapas
Cost:
Rating:
Where?: 41, Beak Street, Soho, London. W1F 9SB.
Closest station(s): Piccadilly Circus, Oxford Circus, Bond Street, Tottenham Court Road.
Telephone: 0207 734 4479
Website: www.polpo.co.uk
I apologise for adding tapas to cuisine type above as Polpo is not a tapas restaurant; it is the Italian equivalent, namely a bacaro. Polpo has received a huge amount of media attention and on this occasion it is certainly well deserved. Everything about the restaurant seems to have been done to minimise stress and allow you to have a relaxed and enjoyable evening.
The menu offers a selection of small dishes, ideal for sharing. This includes a selection of cicheti - tiny plates of food starting from £1.00 (I am surprised to see you can get anything in London for that price these days). Small plates at low prices allows you to have a wide array of food to graze on whilst there.
The food has been excellent each time I have been; on the last occasion I went the highlights were the mackerel tartare, the fritto misto, the polpette and a duck ragu that was bewilderingly unctuous and packed with flavour. At around £5 a plate for the larger plates it is very reasonably priced – the house wine at £18 is extremely quaffable.
Polpo only allows you to book tables for lunch. I am in two minds as to whether the lack of evening booking is a good thing or not; it is great for those occasions that you are in Soho and want a lively atmosphere and great food but haven’t booked – the great shame is that it is so popular you can often find yourself waiting for half an hour or more for a table; during which time it is very easy to get carried away at the bar.
Overall I have great affection for Polpo; the staff are friendly, you get to try lots of delicious morsels, the cooking is excellent and it has a lively buzz throughout the day and evening.