Le Colombier - Restaurant Review

 

Cuisine: French

Cost:

Rating:

Where?: 145,Dovehouse Street, Chelsea Square, London. SW3 6LB.

Closest station(s): South Kensington, Sloane Square, Gloucester Road.   

Telephone:  0207 351 1155

Website: http://www.le-colombier-restaurant.co.uk

Neither state of the art nor cutting edge are phrases that I would associate with Chelsea’s Le Colombier; and that is part of the reason that I hold it in such high regard. Approaching this SW3 stalwart I felt it exuded a relaxedness that I rarely encounter in London. Sitting down at a table on the large awning covered terrace I soon had a refreshing G&T in hand and transported to a French seaside town. Its location, just off the Fulham road, is surprisingly tranquil for London and I can’t say I noticed the traffic until I trudged pack onto the pavement and into the outside world.

This is a brasserie offering a fine selection of the most French of dishes. The selection for both mains and starters is considerable, with a clear intent to keep the dishes simple and of excellent quality, from the vintage sardines, to the terrine de foie gras to the bean salad. There is a lightness to the dishes that, for me, makes it the ideal place for lunch. Being in an almost childish mood I  decided to go for the two French dishes for which I hold the highest regard, namely steak tartare followed by confit duck – not perhaps the two dishes that were best however for my health. Both were excellent, delivering what they should and there was just about the perfect amount of both too.

At around £10 for starters and £22 for mains the menu is not cheap – however I certainly did not feel it to be over-priced. The set menu of two courses and coffee for £19.50 is particularly good value. Unsurprisingly the wine list is French, with bottle available from the £19 mark and a fair selection in the low to mid-£20s.

Le Colombier is certainly somewhere to which I will be returning; I thoroughly enjoyed my meal, the wine isn’t hideously priced and the service was attentive. It does not try to be modern or to impress with foams and theatre; for traditional French food in a very French setting it is up there with the best. 

The Pig's Ear - Restaurant Review

Cuisine:  Gastropub

Cost:  

Rating:

Where?:  35, Old Church Street, Chelsea, London, SW3 5BS.

Closest station(s): Sloane Square, South Kensington, Gloucester Road.        

Telephone: 0207 352 2908

Website: www.thepigsear.info

Tucked away in Chelsea off Cheyne Walk this pub  is not somewhere that I had heard much about – venturing inside it is largely pub with a small dining area to one side. Not being very busy and not feeling like a table clothed dining experience we took a table in the bar.

Having kept its look as a pub the menu was rather more gastro than I had expected. The veal  bone marrow with which I started was delicious, however far too large. Despite sharing half with my dining partner I struggled to finish even my part – I would be surprised to see many people finish a whole plate with it being so rich. The scotch egg was also very good, perfectly cooked. The steak tartare with which I followed was enjoyable; not out of this world but certainly a decent plate of food.

At about £7 for starters and £14 mains it isn’t too bad for Chelsea and the food was good, though not faultless. The house wine is again well priced and the staff were extremely friendly. Overall it was a good find if in Chelsea and wanting a reliable bite in a relaxed environment  – though I’m not sure I would necessarily want to sit in the dining area; certainly a decent gastropub but I’m not sure whether it warrants a table cloth.          

Vingt Quatre - Restaurant Review

Cuisine: Eclectic

Cost:  

Rating:

Where?:  325 Fulham Road, London SW10 9QL

Closest station(s): South Kensington, Gloucester Road, Earl’s Court.    

Telephone:  020 7376 7224

Website: www.vingtquatre.co.uk   

 I managed to even shock myself with how much I disliked my outing to Vingt Quatre. As its name suggests the selling point of Vingt Quatre is that it is open 24 hours a day, allegedly offering a fair selection of well cooked food at times that one would ordinarily be condemned to a kebab house.

The first thing that put me off was the décor; the high backed bench seating is unappealing and fails to create a restaurant atmosphere – surely the whole point of the venture is to offer a restaurant experience at anti-social hours. The menu managed to alienate me further; fish & chips, pork escalope Milanese, three cheese macaroni, wok fried vegetables – yes, the menu would appear to have been selected at random; reminiscent of a motorway service station.

You will however find Vingt Quatre busy on a Friday and Saturday between midnight and 3am; with those who have escaped local watering holes in search of food and importantly more alcohol not having a huge number of other options. I have little love for Vingt Quatre, the alcohol is absurdly priced (£17 for a half bottle of house wine in the early hours – when it is in the region of £13 for a bottle during the day) and the food too is rather steep for the mediocre fare.

Why the owners decided to churn out an eclectic mix of average food, rather than trying to offer something unique - namely decent food for when you leave a pub, bar or club I do not know. To my mind if you want food and drink at 3 or 4 in the morning then you would be better off going home,  ordering a pizza and visiting www.drinks-delivery.co.uk.